We are generalists and not specialists. Therefore, in the absence of any major defects, we may not recommend that you consult with a geo-technical engineer, but this should not deter you from seeking the opinion of any such expert.
It is distinct from a specialist inspection, which can be costly, take several days to complete, involve the use of specialized instruments, the dismantling of equipment, video-scanning, destructive testing, and laboratory analysis. By contrast, the general inspection is completed on-site, at a fraction of the cost and within a few hours. Consequently, the general inspection and its report will not be as comprehensive as that generated by specialists and it is not intended to be.
We take into consideration when a house was built and allow for the predictable deterioration that would occur through time, such as the cracks that appear in concrete and in the plaster around windows and doors, scuffed walls or woodwork, worn or squeaky floors, stiff or stuck windows, and cabinetry that does not function as it did when new.
Therefore, we tend to ignore insignificant and predictable defects, and do not comment on them, and particularly those that would be apparent to the average person or to someone without any construction experience. We are not authorized, or have the expertise, to test for environmental contaminants, or comment on termite, dry rot, fungus or mold, but may alert you to its presence.
A house and its components are complicated, and because of this and the limitations of an on-site report, we offer unlimited consultation and encourage you to ask questions. We encourage candid and forthright communication between all parties, because we believe that it is the only way to avoid stressful disputes and costly litigation.
We do not evaluate any detached structures, such as storage sheds and stables, and we do not water test or evaluate subterranean drainage systems or any mechanical or remotely controlled components, such as driveway gates. Also, we do not evaluate any landscape components, such as trees, shrubs, fountains, ponds, statuary, pottery, fire pits, patio fans, heat lamps, and ornamental or decorative lighting.
Similarly, we do not comment on surface coatings or cosmetic deficiencies and the wear and tear associated with usage or the passage of time that would be readily apparent to the average person.
There are two basic roof types, pitched and flat. Pitched roofs are the most common, and the most dependable. They are variously pitched, and typically finished with composition shingles that have a design life of twenty to twenty-five years, or concrete, composite, Spanish, or metal tiles that have a design-life of forty to fifty years, and gravel roofs that have a lesser pitch and a shorter design-life of ten to fifteen years. These roofs may be layered, or have one roof installed over another, which is a common practice but one that is never recommended because it reduces the design-life of the new roof by several years, can impede emergency service by fire department personal, and requires a periodical service of the flashings. These are serviced with mastic, which eventually shrinks and cracks and provides a common point of leakage. However, among the pitched roofs, gravel ones are the least dependable, because the low pitch and the gravel prevent them from draining as readily as other roofs. Also, the material on most pitched roofs is not designed to be waterproof only water-resistant.
Roofs must be conscientiously maintained. In this respect, the least dependable of all roofs are flat or built-up ones. Some flat roofs are adequately sloped toward drains but many are not, and water simply ponds and will only be dispersed by evaporation. However, the most common cause of leakage results when roofs are not serviced, and foliage and other debris blocks the drainage channels.
Consequently, only installers can credibly guarantee that a roof will not leak, and they do. We cannot, and do not give any such guarantees. We will examine every roof, evaluate it, and even attempt to approximate its age, but we will not predict its remaining life-expectancy, nor guarantee that it will not leak. Naturally, the sellers or the occupants of a residence will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof and of its history. Therefore, we recommend that you ask the sellers about it, and that you either include comprehensive roof coverage in your home insurance policy, or that you obtain a roof certification from an established local roofing company.
The best and most dependable water pipes are copper, because they are not subject to the build-up of minerals that bond to the inside of galvanized pipes and gradually reduce their inner diameter and restrict the volume of water. A water softener will remove most of these minerals, but not once they are bonded within the pipes, for which there would be no remedy other than a re-pipe.
The water pressure within pipes is commonly confused with water volume, but whereas high water volume is good high water pressure is not. In fact, whenever the street pressure exceeds eighty pounds per square inch a regulator is recommended, which typically comes factory preset between forty-five and sixty-five pounds per square inch. However, regardless of the pressure, leaks will occur in any system, and particularly in one with older galvanized pipes, and commonly when the regulator fails and high pressure begins to stress the washers and diaphragms within the various components.
Waste pipes are equally varied and are comprised of older ones, such as those made of clay, or others that are made of a material like cardboard coated with tar, and modern plastic ones referred to as ABS. Typically, the condition of these pipes is directly related to their age. ABS pipes, for instance, are virtually impervious to deterioration. However, some ABS pipes are alleged to have manufacturing defects. Regardless, inasmuch as most drainpipes are concealed, we can only infer their condition by observing the draw at drains.
Nonetheless, blockages will occur at some point in the life of any system, but blockages in the waste lines, and particularly in a main sewer line, can be costly, and it would be prudent to have the main sewer line video scanned. This would also confirm that the house is connected to the public sewer system, which is important because such systems should be evaluated by a specialist before the close of escrow.
You can be sure that blockages will occur, usually relative in severity to the age of the system, and will range from minor ones in the branch lines, or at the traps beneath sinks, tubs, and showers, to major blockages in the main line. The minor ones are easily cleared, either by chemical means or by removing and cleaning the traps.
If tree roots grow into the main drain that connects the house to the public sewer, repairs could become expensive and might include replacing the entire main line. For these reasons, we recommend that you ask the sellers if they have ever experienced any drainage problems, or you may wish to have the main waste line video-scanned before the close of escrow. Failing this, you should obtain an insurance policy that covers blockages and damage to the main line. However, most policies only cover plumbing repairs within the house, or the cost of rooter service, most of which are relatively inexpensive
There are a wide variety of residential electric water heaters that range in capacity from fifteen to one hundred gallons. They can be expected to last at least as long as their warranty, or from five to eight years, but they will generally last longer. However, few of them last longer than fifteen or twenty years and many eventually leak. So it is wise to have them installed over a drain pan, and preferably plumbed to the exterior. Also, they can be dangerous if they are not seismically secured and equipped with a pressure/temperature relief valve and discharge pipe plumbed to the exterior.
There are a wide variety of electrical systems with an equally wide variety of components, and any one particular system may not conform to current standards or provide the same degree of service and safety. We are not specialists and in compliance with industry standards we do not perform load-calculations to determine if the supply meets the demand of the household. Therefore, it is essential that any service recommendations or upgrades that we make should be completed well before the close of escrow, because a specialist could reveal additional deficiencies or recommend some upgrades.
Main Panel: Common national safety standards require electrical panels to be weatherproof, readily accessible, and have a minimum of thirty-six inches of clear space in front of them for service. Also, they should have a main disconnect, and each circuit within the panel should be clearly labeled.
There are a wide variety of systems, which range from older floor, wall, and gravity furnaces to newer forced-air furnaces. Older ones, such as gravity furnaces and most floor and wall furnaces, are the least energy-efficient and the most dangerous. Therefore, it would be prudent to consider replacing them with more economical and reliable forced-air units. However, if they are not replaced, you should be aware that many of them and their parts may no longer be available, and you should also be aware of common safety concerns associated with their use.
The airflow and the efficiency of any system can be compromised by poor maintenance, such as by the filters not being changed regularly, which will contaminate the ducts and have an adverse effect on air quality. Regardless, the sellers or the occupants of a property are often the best judges of how well a system works, and it would be prudent to ask them about its maintenance history and if they have been satisfied with its performance, or you may wish to have a comprehensive evaluation by a specialist. Most heating systems have a design life of twenty years, but if any system is more than ten years old, or if poor maintenance is suspected, it would be wise to schedule a comprehensive service that includes cleaning motors, fans, and ducts. Then, change the filters every two to three months, and schedule biannual maintenance service.
We do not evaluate or endorse any heating device that utilizes fossil fuels and is not vented. The presence and use of these within a residence commonly indicates the inadequacy of the primary heating system or of its distribution.
These and every other fuel burning appliances that are not vented are potentially hazardous. Such appliances include open flames or heated elements, which are capable of igniting any of the myriad flammable materials found in the average home. Also, even the most modern of these appliances can produce carbon monoxide, which in a tightly sealed modern home or a poorly ventilated room can result in sickness, debilitating injury, and even death.
We perform a conscientious evaluation of heating systems, but we are not specialists and cannot see inside ducts. Therefore, it is imperative that any recommendation that we may make for service or a second opinion be scheduled well before the close of escrow, because a specialist could reveal additional defects or recommend further upgrades that could affect your evaluation of the property, and our service does not include any form of warranty or guarantee.
Chimney flues need to be periodically cleaned to prevent the possibility of a chimney fire. However, the complex variety of deposits that form within chimneys are not easily understood. They range from pure carbon, which does not burn, to tars that can ignite. All of these deposits are commonly described as creosote, but creosote has many forms, ranging from crusty carbon deposits that can be easily brushed away, to a tar-glazed creosote that requires chemical cleaning. These deposits should be identified and treated by a specialist.
Cleaning a chimney is not a guarantee against a fire. Studies have proven that a significant percentage of chimney fires have resulted within one month of the chimney being cleaned, and many more have resulted within a six-month period.
We do not evaluate window treatments, nor move furniture, lift carpets or rugs, empty closets or cabinets, and we do not comment on cosmetic deficiencies.
Cracks can become the subject of disputes, and are therefore best evaluated by a geologist or a structural engineer. Similarly, there are a number of environmental pollutants that can contaminate a home, such as asbestos, carbon monoxide, radon, and a variety of molds and fungi that require specialized testing equipment, which is beyond our expertise and the scope of our service. There are also lesser contaminants, such as odors that are typically caused by moisture penetrating concealed slabs, or those caused by household pets. And inasmuch as the sensitivity to such odors is not uniform, we recommend that you make this determination for yourself, and particularly if domestic pets are occupying the premises, and then schedule whatever service may be deemed appropriate before the close of escrow.
Finished Basements: Moisture in basements is a perennial problem, involving a host of interrelated factors, and can be unpredictable, intermittent, or constant. When moisture intrusion or dampness is not self evident, it can be inferred by musty odors, peeling paint or plaster, efflorescence, or salt crystal formations, rust on metal components, and wood rot.
Condensation and humidity can produce similar conditions if the temperature in the basement is not maintained above the dew point. Regardless, we are not mold specialists, and if you or any member of your family are sensitive to allergens you should schedule a specialist inspection.
We do not inspect the following items: free-standing appliances, refrigerators, trash-compactors, built-in toasters, coffee-makers, can-openers, blenders, instant hot-water dispensers, water-purifiers, barbecues, grills, or rotisseries, timers, clocks, thermostats, the self-cleaning capacity of ovens, and concealed or countertop lighting, which is convenient but often installed after the initial construction and powered by extension cords or ungrounded conduits.
There are two things that you should be aware of: water supply to washing machines is usually left on, and their hoses can leak or burst under pressure and continue to flow.
We suggest that you ask the sellers to guarantee that the pool or spa does not leak, request to review the water bills for a twelve month period, or obtain comprehensive insurance to cover such an eventuality.
However, there are other equally significant issues regarding pools and spas, and particularly those having to do with electricity. Electrical standards governing pools and spas vary, and have changed significantly through time. We recommend that all metal equipment in the vicinity of the pool or spa, including fences and post straps, be bonded and that pool and spa lights should not be used unless they are confirmed to have ground-fault protection.
The interior finish of pools and spas rarely remains perfect, and particularly on pools with colored plasters, and certainly if the chemical balance of the water is not properly maintained. Calcium and other minerals will have a tendency to leech through the material and mar the finish.
Decks around pools and spas tend to develop cracks that have only a cosmetic significance. Some of these will contour the outline of the pool, or the point at which the bond beam, or structural wall of the pool, meets the surrounding soil. Some cracks are larger and result from seismic motion, or from settling due to poorly compacted soils, or they confirm the presence of expansive soils, which can be equally destructive, but which should be confirmed by a geo-structural engineer. However, any crack in the shell of a pool or spa should be dye-tested or otherwise evaluated by a specialist.
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© 2003 THE BEST HOME INSPECTION LLC. LEGAL NOTICES
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